Ode to Casa Eva
Casa Eva, the 300-year-old Indo-Portuguese eponym of Avó Eva, sits in the heart of South Goa, on the edge of the Arabian Sea, beneath the groves of coconut and mango.
At a time when extractive tourism and unchecked development pose an existential threat to the region, the ancestral home is slowly being readapted as an artist residency and community space.
Below is my love letter to her (re)becoming, followed by a photo diary of my transformative time spent under her Mangalore tile roof!
HER DOUBLE DOORS SWING OPEN TO REVEAL BUTTERFLIES
DRUNK IN BOUGANVILLEA BUSHES
WHILE THE HORNBILL CACKLES FROM THE TAMARIND TREE
AND SMOKE CURLS FROM THE CHARCOAL OVEN
WHERE AVÓ EVA BAKES BEBINKA
LAYER BY LAYER
LAYER BY LAYER
LAYER BY LAYER
LAYER
HER ARMS WRAP AROUND THE GRANDFATHER
WHO READS THE O’HERALDO
IN THE SUNNY SPOT
ON THE BALCAÕ
THE ELDEST OF SIX
THE BEARER OF RESPONSIBILITY
THE NAME ON THE MAILBOX
HE WATCHES AS MEN SCALE HER SCARRED TREES
WITH HARNESSED FEET AND GRIPPED MACHETES
THEY HANG BENEATH THE PALMS
AND IN ONE SWIFT MOTION
MOTHER’S MILK DROPS
LIKE RAIN FROM THE SKY
HER TENDER JUICES
SIPPED AND SHARED
RAFTERS OF THE SAME BARK
SUPPORT OUR SANCTUARY FROM WITHIN
RAYS BEAM THROUGH THE COWL TILE
CASTING SHADOWS ON SUN-BAKED COBWEBS
WHILE GOLDEN LIGHT FLOODS THE COURTYARD
AND ORGANIC HUES RADIATE FROM HER EPICENTER
HER HEART
HER SOUL
HER BONES COMPOSED OF MANY ELEMENTS
INDIGENOUS TO THIS EARTH:
LATERITE LIME TEAK TERRACOTTA
THE SAME TILES THAT SHELTER US
FROM HEAVY RAINS THAT HIT RED CLAY
AND REPLENISH THE SOURCE OF LIFE
HARVESTED FROM HER BOSOM
SHE WAS LOOTED OF HER HEIRLOOMS
ROBBED OF HER RATTAN
DURING THE DECADE OF ABANDONMENT
HER HOLLOW SIGH WAS CAST TO THE JUNGLE
CARRIED BY THE SEASIDE WINDS
CAPTURED BY THE DIASPORA
WHO NOW RETURN
THROUGH THE BOWELS OF BUREAUCRACY
TO RESIST THE STATUS QUO
TO REBUILD A HOME WITH DEEP TIME IN MIND
WE ENABLE HER EMERGENCE AND SHE ENABLES OURS
SO LONG AS WE RESPECT THE GRANDMOTHER
WHO LIVED WITH SAUDADE
TO RETURN
TO THE RED CLAY
WHERE HER HUSBAND LIES
BENEATH THE CHIKOO TREE
DOWN THE LONG DRIVEWAY
IN THE FIRST WARD
WHERE GRAVEL CRACKS BENEATH TIRES
AS HANDHELD HORNS HONK:
PAÕ WITH DINNER TONIGHT, CHILDREN
WE LIVE WITH THE SPIRITS
WHO INHABIT
WHO PROTECT
WHO REMEMBER
WHEN HER FLOORS WERE MADE OF DUNG
WHEN BABIES WERE BAPTIZED BENEATH HER ALTER
WHEN THE EMPIRE WAS AT HER FRONT STEPS
WE STARE AT THE SAME ROOF
COUNT THE SAME SHEEP
TIL SLUMBER ENFOLDS US
IN HER WOMB
IN HER ECOSYSTEM
IN HER SYMPHONY
THAT SEEPS THROUGH THE CRACKS
NO NEED FOR AN ALARM!
AVE MARIA PERMEATES THE MOSQUITO NET
MASS IS UNFOLDING
ANOTHER FEST DAY, IS IT?
MAY WE ALL MELT INTO HER MARBLE FLOORS
MAY WE ALL CHERISH WHAT IS BEING BUILT
MAY WE ALL HONOR THE NEXT SEVEN GENERATIONS
TO COME
TO PLAY
TO PRESERVE
ALL ARE WELCOME IN THIS SPACE
TO EXPLORE
TO UNFOLD
TO INTEGRATE
ALL ARE WELCOME IN THIS SPACE
Avó Eva & Avô Chico on the verandah (don’t be mistaken - this is Chico’s look of joy)
PHOTO GALLERY (JULY - DECEMBER 2025)
The love letter that inspired this poem, written in the sand on my final day in December 2025
What’s it like to share the 300-year-old ancestral home of your best friend?
DIY sign and sealed and in the soil
Post-banana tree planting in peak monsoon humidity - with nothing but my forehead exposed, the mosquitoes still managed some damage
Hosting 7 guest workers from Nepal. Learning about their stories was profound.
Our Nepalese guest workers transformed the 8,000m² of land using traditional methods. This was unbelievable to witness.
Natasha plant - named after her sponsor, my mother
Santan and his crew collecting 515 coconuts from Casa Eva’s trees (they’ve been harvesting these palms for over 20 years)!
Found this at the Ethnographic museum: traditional padekars (coconut climbers) wear a red, woven loincloth (kashtii)
Sipping on the harvest!
Fresh doors made of local teak wood by beautiful men
Trusted with the power tools
Planting a curry leaf garden
Eva and Chico gave permission for a Fair Price shop to be opened on their land. Here, locals can buy staple food grains at a subsidized cost.
Surveying the 8,000 m² of land
The ‘Vaz’ insignia etched in stone at the entrance
Our German guests decrypting the Roman numerals - any guesses?
The alter is a classic feature of Indo-Portuguese homes (beneath which Tor’s great-grandfather was baptized)
The vintage fridge in need of an upcycle
Making room for the old & new
Interviewing Tia Dora in Lisbon about the impossibly long history behind the home…for a future article!
Incredibly researched book that illuminated Goa from the perspective of the returning diaspora
Goa is facing an existential threat due to unchecked development - Casa Eva is part of that resistance
Does she match the photo above?
Casa Eva’s floor plan, made by Olio
Bamboo harvested from the front yard
Building a ladder of sorts
Home alone at night, electricity out, and suddenly the loudest crash of my life. Surely, I’m dead. No, it’s just the back roof caving in.
Morning yoga practice
What a life!
Chico’s bedroom gets a makeover!
My next bedroom at Casa Eva
Hosting community-led yoga sessions
Weekly sound healing sessions with Twinkle
The ballroom, where countless soirees once took place
Forever embedded on the kitchen windowsill
Our neighbor’s majestic bull
Juliana experiments with lime plaster combinations
Knock knock “Auntie, are you selling any bikes?”
Me & my bike & an impossible view
Latest batch of analogue cards hot off the press!
Chef Gokul visits Casa Eva! Future collaboration brewing…
Hanging posters around town inviting folks to Casa Eva!
Casa Eva starts to grow into a community space…
Krishnamurti
Mailbox
Weekly trip to the post office
Lots of bureaucratic trips to the Panchayat - village council - for paperwork
Tiny details of the double gallery doors that enclose the ballroom
The only item spared by the robbers was the intricately carved dining room table - probably because it was way too heavy
Replacing what was stolen (dad’s childhood leg-rest chair)
Dev Borem Korum!
Never a dull moment
Mother-of-pearl oyster shells cut and fit into wooden lattices (instead of expensive glass windows) - hallmark of Portuguese-era
How many ancestors saw this same view?
Birthday borscht using local ingredients
Our evening vibe
Everybody’s favorite room
Living with lizards
Frogs, too! (and once a snake)
Pacing up and down the red gravel driveway every night as I respond to voice messages
Caught coconut-handed (breakfast)
My goal was to swim in the beach 5 mornings a week!
Visiting Abdul every other morning for the freshest of fruits and veggies
The neighbor’s chicken (goose?)
The door of our neighboring village chapel which neighbors a Hindu temple which woke us up every morning
Neighbor invited me to the morning temple
The landmark church behind which Casa Eva lives
(what are the odds we’re invited to a Lithuanian-Goan wedding!?)
Plummeting to the tennis courts on the back of the motorbike
Post-tennis swim looked something like this (fisherman patching their nets after a long day)
Slow Food potluck! Apologies in advance to the vegetarians, aka only me
The energy we’re manifesting for Casa Eva functions
Neighbor’s balcaõ which I loved
The hallmark balcaõ of Goa
High tea and drum circle at a traditional Goan home
If you want to understand Goa through a lens of child-like wonder, check out Pakho!
Sometimes we treated ourselves…
Mom cooks breakfast in the kitchen designed by the Olio team!
Visiting the Indo-Portuguese homes of South Goa
Consultation with a local astrologist…Tor received the short end of the fortune-telling stick
River antics
After 6 months, my blood was made of masala chai. Mmm.
Mom says goodbye!
Joined the 5am pilgrimage to this church that overlooks the breathtaking salt pans
Backbreaking labor performed by the women
Infiltrating the Goan bouldering community
With the winner of the Saligao market costume contest
How’d the little artist do?
One false move and you’re licking off the leftovers
GOA TAUGHT ME TO LIVE IN COLORRR
GOA TAUGHT ME TO LOVE IN COLORRR
Joel whisks me away on the back of the motorbike to visit his mother
Noyna and Varuna show me Benaulim
Chasing waterfalls
My first of many future leeches were experienced here
Hydroelectric something or other…
Onam festival feast! Not pictured: my graveyard of napkins (due to the spice)
My very first contribution to the home upon arrival
6 months of healing my inner child
Time stands still in the courtyard (aangann) - this is how I will forever remember Casa Eva